Thonburi Bangkok: the riverside, Wat Arun and the khlongs
Thonburi is the west bank of the Chao Phraya, and for fifteen years in the eighteenth century it was the capital before the court moved across the river. Most visitors see Thonburi Bangkok only as the backdrop to Wat Arun. That is a waste. The strip between Khlong Bangkok Noi and Khlong Bangkok Yai has a market tucked behind a hospital, a canal lined with wooden houses, and the best temple view in the city, seen from a ferry that costs less than a bottle of water.
Wat Arun and the river edge
Wat Arun is the temple on the postcards: a central prang covered in broken Chinese porcelain, flanked by four smaller ones. The steep lower terraces are open to climb and give a wide view back across the water to the Grand Palace. The ordinary cross-river ferry from Tha Tien lands you at the gate. Late afternoon is the time to go, when the sun hits the tiles; after dark the prang is lit and better seen from the Tha Tien side with a drink in hand.
A short walk south along the lanes brings you to the mouth of Khlong Bangkok Yai, where Wat Kalayanamit holds a very large seated Buddha, and then to the old Portuguese quarter covered in the Kudi Chin guide.
Wang Lang, the market behind Siriraj
Wang Lang market sits between Siriraj Hospital and the river, directly opposite Thammasat University. It is a working lunch market for nurses, doctors and students, which is why the food is good and cheap. Look for the southern Thai curry shops with trays of yellow and green curries, khanom jeen rice noodles with fish curry, grilled pork skewers and coconut ice cream. The lanes behind sell clothes, phone cases and cosmetics at student prices.
Two museums are a few steps away. Siriraj Bimuksthan Museum, in the old Thonburi railway station, covers the history of the area and the hospital. The Siriraj Medical Museum next door is famous for its forensic displays; go only if you are not squeamish.
Khlong Bangkok Noi and Khlong Bangkok Yai
The two big canals that loop west of the river were once the main channel of the Chao Phraya itself. Longtail boats from Tha Chang, Tha Tien and Sathorn run an hour-long circuit through them, past stilt houses, temples and the occasional monitor lizard. On Khlong Bangkok Noi the stop that matters is the Royal Barge National Museum, a boat shed holding the gilded barges used for royal river processions.
Khlong Bang Luang
Off Khlong Bangkok Yai, Khlong Bang Luang is a quieter canal with a wooden walkway, an old temple and the Artist's House (Baan Silapin), a 200-year-old house that runs traditional puppet shows at weekends; check the venue for days. It is reachable on foot from BTS Bang Wa and makes a good half-day with Wat Pak Nam Phasi Charoen, whose enormous seated Buddha and green glass chedi are visible from the train.
Modern Thonburi Bangkok: ICONSIAM and Khlong San
Further south, the riverside turns into malls and hotels. ICONSIAM at Khlong San is the biggest, with an indoor floating-market food hall on the ground floor and a free shuttle boat from Sathorn pier. The old Khlong San market behind it still runs in the evening. Across the water is the Charoen Krung and Bang Rak side, which pairs well with an evening here.
Getting there
- MRT Blue Line Itsaraphap is a ten-minute walk to Wat Arun; MRT Sanam Chai on the east bank plus the Tha Tien ferry is the prettier route.
- Chao Phraya Express boats stop at Wang Lang (Siriraj) pier; cross-river ferries also run from Tha Chang and Phra Chan.
- BTS Bang Wa (Silom Line) or MRT Bang Phai for Khlong Bang Luang and Wat Pak Nam.
- For ICONSIAM, the free shuttle from Sathorn Central pier, or BTS Charoen Nakhon on the Gold Line.