Pratunam Bangkok and Ratchaprasong: shrines, malls and markets

Pratunam Bangkok and Ratchaprasong are two halves of one district, split by the Khlong Saen Saep canal. South of the canal, Ratchaprasong is the polished side: the Erawan Shrine on the corner, CentralWorld and Gaysorn, five-star hotels and a skywalk linking the lot. North of the canal, Pratunam is the trade side: a wholesale clothing market that spills over several blocks, the Platinum mall, and the Baiyoke tower rising above it all. The two meet at the Pratunam intersection and the canal pier.

Ratchaprasong

The [Erawan Shrine](/?q=Erawan Shrine) sits on the corner of Ratchadamri and Phloen Chit, under the skywalk, and is the most visited shrine in Bangkok. It honours Brahma, was built in the 1950s to protect the hotel being constructed behind it, and draws a constant crowd of worshippers with flowers, incense and paid dance troupes. It is free to enter and worth ten minutes at any hour. Several other Hindu shrines stand around the intersection, including the Trimurti and Ganesha shrines in front of CentralWorld.

CentralWorld is one of the largest malls in Southeast Asia, with a huge plaza in front that hosts the city's main New Year countdown and regular events and markets. Gaysorn Village opposite is smaller and more upmarket. One stop east, Central Embassy at Phloen Chit holds the Open House library and dining floor at the top, which is a pleasant place to work or read.

Pratunam Market

Cross the canal and the tone changes. Pratunam Market is a wholesale garment district rather than a single market: streets and alleys of stalls and small shops selling clothes, shoes, bags and accessories in bulk, with the best prices for multiple pieces. Platinum Fashion Mall is the indoor, air-conditioned version, floors of small units aimed at traders but happy to sell single items. It is busiest in the mornings when buyers from across the region come in. The weekend markets and night markets posts cover the city's other markets.

Baiyoke and the view

Baiyoke Tower II was Bangkok's tallest building for years and still dominates Pratunam. The observation deck and revolving platform near the top give a wide view over the city, and the hotel's buffet floors are a well-known if not especially refined night out. Around its base, the streets are a jumble of market stalls, cheap hotels, African and South Asian restaurants, and the city's most famous chicken rice shop, the pink-shirted Go-Ang on Phetchaburi Soi 30.

Eating in Pratunam and Ratchaprasong

• Hainanese chicken rice on Phetchaburi Soi 30, with queues at busy times.
• Market-stall noodles and grilled meats around Pratunam Market, served fast for traders.
• The food courts at CentralWorld and Platinum for a cheap, cool lunch.
• Hotel restaurants and the Open House floor at Central Embassy for a longer sit.

Getting there

BTS [Chit Lom](/?q=Chit Lom) on the Sukhumvit line is the stop for Ratchaprasong and the Erawan Shrine, and the skywalk runs west to Siam and east to Phloen Chit. Pratunam has no BTS station; it is a ten-minute walk north from Chit Lom across the canal bridge, or from Ratchathewi BTS to the west. The better arrival is by boat: Pratunam pier on the Khlong Saen Saep canal is the interchange between the Golden Mount line to the Old Town and the eastern line to Sukhumvit, Thonglor and beyond. The boats post explains the canal system. Traffic around the Ratchaprasong intersection is slow at all hours, so walk the skywalk where possible.