Phrom Phong: a guide to EmQuartier, Emporium and Benjasiri Park
Phrom Phong is the stretch of Sukhumvit around the BTS station of the same name, between roughly Soi 22 and Soi 39. Three connected malls, a park, and a dense run of Japanese restaurants give the area its character. It is comfortable, expensive and easy, which is why so many long-term residents end up living here and so many visitors base themselves nearby.
The three malls
Emporium is the original, on the south side of the road at Soi 24. EmQuartier opened opposite it on the north side and is the one most people mean when they say Phrom Phong: three linked buildings, a garden terrace several floors up, and a spiral of restaurants on the upper levels. EmSphere, the newest of the three, sits next to Emporium and leans towards food halls, events and a rooftop. All three connect to the BTS by walkway, so the whole complex works as one large air-conditioned block.
The practical uses: the supermarkets in the basements are good for picking up food and supplies, the cinemas are comfortable, and the restaurant floors are a reliable fallback when it rains. The cinemas and film post has more on the screens.
Benjasiri Park
Benjasiri Park sits between Emporium and EmSphere, directly on Sukhumvit Road. It is small but well used: a lake with a path around it, a skate area, basketball and takraw courts, and sculptures dotted through the lawns. Early morning and late afternoon are the times to come; in the middle of the day there is little shade. It is free, and a quiet place to sit after the malls. For a larger park, Benjakitti is two stops west at Asok.
Japanese Phrom Phong
The sois north of the main road, especially Soi 33/1 and Soi 39, are home to one of the largest Japanese communities outside Japan. The result is a strip of ramen shops, sushi counters, yakiniku grills, bakeries and Japanese supermarkets aimed at residents. Soi 33/1 is the compact version, a short lane of small restaurants just off the station. Soi 39 is longer and leafier, with restaurants spread along it and side lanes worth wandering. Soi 24 on the south side has a similar mix plus some long-running Thai and international places.
For Thai food, the stalls and shophouses on Soi 24 and in the lanes behind Emporium are good value, and the food halls inside the malls are a clean, cheap way to try a range of dishes in one sitting.
Beyond the malls
Soi 26 runs south to K Village, a small open-air mall with restaurants and a weekend market, and on to the Rama IV end. Soi 31 and Soi 35 to the north are quieter residential streets with cafes and a few galleries, and Soi 31 continues north to Phetchaburi Road and the canal. The art galleries by district post covers the galleries in these sois.
For nightlife, [Phrom Phong](/?q=Phrom Phong) itself is restrained: hotel bars, a few wine bars, and quiet restaurants. Thonglor is one stop east and does the heavy lifting; see the Thonglor guide. The wider strip is covered in the Sukhumvit guide.
Getting there
BTS Phrom Phong on the Sukhumvit line has exits straight into Emporium and EmQuartier. From Siam it is four stops; from Asok, two. The MRT does not come here directly; the nearest Blue Line interchange is Asok (MRT Sukhumvit). The Khlong Saen Saep canal boat stops at Prasanmit pier at the top of Soi 23 and at Thong Lo pier further east, both a long walk from the station, so the canal is only useful for the northern sois. Taxis on Sukhumvit Road are slow at most hours; the BTS is faster for anything along the line.