Bang Krachao: Bangkok's green lung by ferry and bicycle

Bang Krachao is the fat loop of the Chao Phraya directly across the water from Khlong Toei port, and from the air it looks like a green stomach pressed into the city. It is technically in Samut Prakan province, kept low-rise by planning rules and royal patronage, and inside it are coconut and nipa palm plantations, a large park, raised concrete cycle paths through the trees and a weekend market. Bangkok calls it the green lung. A morning here is the easiest escape from the city that does not involve a train.

Getting across

The crossing is the whole point. Small ferries, essentially longtails with a roof, cross from three or four piers on the Bangkok side; the two most useful are at Khlong Toei (Wat Khlong Toei Nok pier, behind the port and a short taxi from MRT Khlong Toei) and at Wat Bang Na Nok in Bang Na. The crossing takes about five minutes and lands you at a pier with bicycle hire shops. Bikes are basic single-speed machines, which is fine, because the whole peninsula is flat.

Cycling Bang Krachao's raised paths

Bang Krachao is laced with narrow concrete walkways raised a metre or two above the swampy ground, originally built so villagers could reach their orchards in the wet season. They are just wide enough for a bicycle, with occasional passing places and no railings, so ride slowly and ring the bell at corners. Routes are signposted in Thai and English from the piers, and most people simply loop through the plantations, stop at a temple or two and end at the park. Wat Bang Nam Phueng Nok, near the market, is the biggest temple on the island.

Carry water. There is shade for most of the route but it is humid under the palms, and the shops are spread out.

Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park

Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park is the centrepiece: a landscaped park and botanical garden with lakes, a bird-watching tower and wide cycle lanes. It is a public park, open daily and free. Early morning brings birders; the tower looks across the canopy to the towers of Sathorn and Rama III, which is the view that explains the nickname. There is also the Bangkok Tree House hotel on the river edge nearby, if you want to stay.

Bang Nam Phueng floating market

At weekends only, Bang Nam Phueng market opens along a canal in the middle of the island. Despite the name it is mostly on land, a long covered walkway of food stalls and handicrafts aimed at Bangkok day-trippers rather than foreign tourists, which is why it is good: grilled river prawns, hoi tod oyster pancakes, Thai sweets, coconut ice cream in the shell and herbal drinks. Go before noon; it winds down by mid-afternoon and does not run on weekdays.

The island also has an incense-making village and a small herbal spa or two in the villages, but these are small-scale and change; ask at the bicycle shops.

Getting there

• MRT Khlong Toei, then a taxi to Wat Khlong Toei Nok pier (ten minutes); the ferry runs through the day.
• BTS Bang Na, then taxi to Wat Bang Na Nok pier, for the southern end.
• Bicycle hire is at every landing pier; bring cash and leave ID if asked.
• Weekdays are quiet and the paths empty; weekends bring the market and more cyclists. Avoid the middle of the day in hot season. For other green options in the city, see Bangkok parks and running routes.