Asok Bangkok and Nana: a guide to lower Sukhumvit

Asok Bangkok and Nana are the first two BTS stops on Sukhumvit Road after Phloen Chit, and together they make up the busiest, loudest and most tourist-facing stretch of the road. Asok has the city's most used interchange, a mall built around an airport theme and the entrance to a large park. Nana has hotel towers, a red-light complex and the best Middle Eastern food in Bangkok. They are a short walk apart along the main road, though the walk is not a pleasant one.

Asok

The intersection of Sukhumvit and Asok Montri Road (Sukhumvit Soi 21) is where the BTS crosses the MRT Blue Line. [Terminal 21](/?q=Terminal 21) sits on the corner, a mall where each floor is themed as a city, with a cheap food court near the top that is one of the best-value places to eat on the whole road. Across the junction, Soi Cowboy is a short strip of go-go bars under neon, loud from dusk, and easy to walk past if it is not your thing.

Soi 23 behind Soi Cowboy is a long, mixed street of restaurants, massage shops and the Srinakharinwirot University campus. Asok Montri Road itself runs north to Phetchaburi with a mix of office towers, Thai restaurants and a few long-running bars.

Benjakitti Park

Benjakitti Park is the best thing about Asok. The older half has a lake with a running and cycling loop; the newer forest park half, opened in stages from 2022, has wetlands, raised walkways and a skywalk, and is one of the largest green spaces in central Bangkok. The entrance is at the end of Soi 10 or via the walkway from the Asok junction, and the far side is next to MRT Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre. It is free. Come early or late in the day. The parks and running routes post covers the loops.

Nana

Nana is Sukhumvit Soi 3 to Soi 11 and it changes character by soi. Soi 3 and the lane called Soi 3/1 are the Middle Eastern quarter, with Lebanese, Egyptian, Yemeni and Iranian restaurants, shisha terraces and late dinners. Soi 4 is Nana Plaza, a three-storey courtyard of go-go bars, and the street around it is a bar strip. Across the road, [Sukhumvit Soi 11](/?q=Sukhumvit 11) is the party soi: hotel rooftops, beer gardens, clubs and street carts, busy every night. Soi 12 is calmer and includes the long-running Cabbages and Condoms restaurant in a garden setting.

The Nana area is not for everyone, and it is fair to say so. It is loud, the pavement is crowded and the touts are persistent. It is also safe, well-lit and good fun if that is the night you want.

Eating around Asok and Nana

• Shawarma, grilled meats and mezze on Soi 3/1, late.
• The food court at Terminal 21 for cheap Thai dishes in air conditioning.
• Street carts on Soi 11 and along Sukhumvit Road for pork skewers, fried chicken and noodles.
• Soi 23 and Asok Montri for Thai, Japanese and Korean restaurants away from the main road.

The late-night eats post lists what stays open after the bars.

Getting there

BTS Asok and BTS Nana are adjacent stops on the Sukhumvit line. Asok connects by walkway to MRT Sukhumvit on the Blue Line, which is the quickest link to Chinatown, Hua Lamphong and Silom. The Khlong Saen Saep canal boat stops at Nana Nua pier (top of Soi 3) and Asok pier (top of Asok Montri Road), which is a cheap back route to Pratunam, Siam and the Old Town. Benjakitti Park's far side is served by MRT Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre. On foot, Soi 11 to Terminal 21 is about fifteen minutes along the main road. For the rest of the road, see the Sukhumvit guide.